Adventures in Bulgaria

April 27th, 2010

I have earlier written about the beautiful Bulgarian nature and have also been trekking a lot in the mountains around Sofia. Lately the weather have been really good here which have given me the opportunity also to do a lot of outdoor sports, instead of the indoor climbing I mostly did during the colder part of the year. Some weeks ago for example I was to the opening of the rafting season in Bulgaria. Last weekend, I was checking out the climbing sites in and around Plovdiv. One of them is just 50 meters from the town walking area, and another was about 30 minutes drive from the city. The common thing with them all is that the level of climbing is very advanced, which can be one of the reasons that most of the best climbers in Bulgaria is from Plovdiv and it’s climbing club with only about 10 people in it.

Check out the pictures below from the weekend, and the web site www.bulgaria-adventures.com which I will officially launch in some weeks from now.

Vertical crimp climbing Plovdiv

Climber and belayer

Plovdiv tepeta climbing

Two climbers on rock wall

Homemade bridge over river

Climber preparing jump

Bulgarian rock climber

Hanging climber

Lead climber

Brjanovshtitza climber

Toprope climbing high

Climbing dog

Climber with hand chalk

Climber handhold

Climber with forest background

Climber and   trees

Curved climber

Climber clipping

Brjanovshtitza climbing

Brjanovshtitza rock view

Brjanovshtitza climbing rock wall

Climbing rope foot edging

Climbing hut on mountain wall

Climber gravical high vertical

Climbing silhouette

Photographing the roma people of Serbia

April 22nd, 2010

Last week I was in Serbia to take photographs for an article about the roma people living there. This was a great experience which included meeting a lot of interesting people who was living in these camps or trying to help them.

The main problem the Roma in Serbia has today is that they have no type of identification. There is a possibility to go to another town to get this, but the trip plus the cost for the identification can be as much as 150 euro per person, which is of course impossible to save up to when you don’t even have money for your daily food. Without identification you are not allowed to get an apartment, hospital treatment or to work, which means no income. A lot of the people collects and returns paper though which barely gives enough money for food. The rest lives from food found in the trash.

The second problem is that these people have no fixed place to stay and are unwanted everywhere. A lot of them move to Belgrade in the belief that it is easier for them to find a job there. Some tries to go to other countries with trucks, paying with their last money/jewelry/possessions, to find themselves get thrown back to Serbia again. When they arrive they get left outside by the police (that follows them from the country throwing them out) outside the Belgrade airport with no money, no information and no idea where to go. Most end up on the streets and after some time hopefully move into one of the about 150 Roma camps in Belgrade, which is houses of cardboard built up on a trash yard. After some years the government will destroy the camp to be able to build on that ground, and you will have to start from the beginning again.

Most of the Roma children don’t go to school because of the parents needing them to work instead, begging or collecting paper. On top of this they can’t afford to pay for the food the children need to buy if going to school. Also, if the children is born or have lived the main part of their life in another country they can’t speak or understand the Serbian language which will disable them in school.

The pictures below is from one of the camps I visited, this one in Belgrade. The spirit of all the people I met was very high and everyone being very positive and warm, although they have been informed that their camp will be totally destroyed to the ground within two months because it disturbs the view of a newly built modern house with expensive apartments, where by the way their old camp were placed before getting destroyed. They will probably not be told the exact date and the government will not allow photographers or other media people on the place when this happens.

kid girl begging for money

romani gypsy paper collecters

gypsy camp rooftops

gypsy house and skyscraper

The old camp was destroyed to make place for the building in the background. In two months time this camp will be destroyed for creating a better view for the people living in the new building.. No replacement living place will be offered to the people living in the camp.

gypsy houses and trash

young child walking in gypsy camp

gypsy kid with beer bottle

gypsy mother and son

gypsy romani housewife

happy romani friends

kids, mother washing in background

roma children in gypsy camp

roma kids play fighting

romani camp belgrade

romani children belgrade

romani cute girl

romani gypsy mother

romani kids playing in backyard

romani kids serbia

romani woman meeting

romani woman washing in camp

romani woman

old gypsy roma woman

Rafting opening season in Kresna

April 13th, 2010

Just back to Bulgaria and the first weekend happen to be the opening season of rafting, great! One of my friends was earlier in the Bulgarian rafting team and last weekend I joined her to do the first rafting of the year. Below you can see the pictures from these days.

Microphones in mountain

Trekking in the beautiful nature with mountains

Blurred rafters below

Descent into raft

Green kayak in stream

Kayak head down

Overview from mountain

Paddling rafters

Raft in stream

Rafters far below

Rafters with green nature

Rafters paddling

Rafting for beginners (lesson)

Rafting lesson

Rafting seen from above

Stream

Yellow kayak in stream

Trees in different colors

Cloud and trees

Green salamander (amphibian)

Veliko Ternovo + status update

March 18th, 2010

I realize it was a while since i wrote here. I’ve now moved back to Sofia about two weeks ago and have done a lot of things, but most of all, spending time with my friends here. On top of this one friend from Milan came to visit Bulgaria, and we rented a car for a day trip to Veliko Ternovo. This is the old capital of Bulgaria and a very beautiful picturesque city. Below you will find some of my pictures from this trip.

Tomorrow I will go on a trip to visit friends & family in Italy, Sweden & Denmark. When I return to Sofia I will write a blog post with tips on how to pack your travel bag small & efficient.

Veliko Ternovo river

Veliko Ternovo - house near river

Triple locked box in Veliko Ternovo

Blocked window in Veliko Ternovo

Not so homeless dog in Veliko Ternovo

Balcony with clothes in Veliko Ternovo

Interesting view in Veliko Ternovo

Different place to have a WC - Veliko Ternovo

Beautiful view in Veliko Ternovo

Sunset - end of car trip to Veliko Ternovo

New pictures from Istanbul

February 28th, 2010

I have been walking a lot, doing the last things needed on my list here in Istanbul, before moving back to Sofia in a week or two from now. Here are my pictures from this week, enjoy.

Bosphorus at night time

Bosphorus at night time

People near Bosphorus

People near Bosphorus

Cleaners playing football in a park

Cleaners playing football in a park

Crowded underground walkway near Galata Bridge

Crowded underground walkway near Galata Bridge

Egyptian spice market

Egyptian spice market

Father and son washing feets outside a mosque

Father and son washing feets outside a mosque

Fishing on the Galata bridge with a mosque in the background

Fishing on the Galata bridge with a mosque in the background

Old couple looking out over the "Golden horn"

Old couple looking out over the "Golden horn"

Homeless cat in a small unnamed park

Homeless cat in a small unnamed park

People taking care of homeless cats

People taking care of homeless cats

Homeless dog sleeping on a bench

Homeless dog sleeping on a bench

Istanbul fishmarket near the shore of Bosphorus

Istanbul fishmarket near the shore of Bosphorus

Kiz Kulesi Leanders Tower - symbol of Istanbul - with light house and bridge in the background

Kiz Kulesi Leanders Tower - one of the symbols of Istanbul - with light house and bridge in the background

Ocean of fish from Bosphorus (at the fish market)

Ocean of fish from Bosphorus (at the fish market)

School children playing basket ball in a school yard

School children playing basket ball in a school yard

Sheep heads and brain at a food market in the Asian side of Istanbul

Sheep heads and brain at a food market in the Asian side of Istanbul

Man with simit bread in the Sultan Ahmed area

Man with simit bread in the Sultan Ahmed area

Beautiful building inside the Topkapı Palace

Beautiful building inside the Topkapı Palace

Ottoman Harem inside the Topkapı Palace

Ottoman Harem inside the Topkapı Palace

Man squatting outside the Topkapı Palace

Man squatting outside the Topkapı Palace

Turkish hamam (bath house)

Turkish hamam (bath house)

Roof of another Turkish hamam

Roof of another Turkish hamam

Turkish man selling shoes on the street

Turkish man selling shoes on the street

Turkish men on a coffea & cigarette break

Turkish men on a coffee & cigarette break

Dog upside down laying on his back (wagging his tail, so not dead)

Dog upside down laying on his back (wagging his tail, so not dead)

People washing their feets outside the Blue Mosque

People washing their feets outside the Blue Mosque

Bus Sofia <-> Istanbul

February 16th, 2010

Today I arrived back to Istanbul from my one-week-trip “home” to Sofia. I had a great week climbing, snowboarding, going to vernissages, museums, markets and meeting a lot of friends again.

To go to Sofia from Istanbul is very easy and only costs 20 euro one way. There is a lot of bus companies to choose from, and the buses departs several times a day. Because the trip is about 8-9 hours I would recommending taking the night bus at 10 pm, which makes you miss less time and you can get some sleep at the same time. The bus company I would recommend you to take is HAS Turizm which have comfortable buses, good service, few people and almost never any tourists. Also included in the price is water, tea, coffee and cake. Don’t expect anyone on the bus to speak English though, so if you want to have more control, go with for example METRO Turizm which have mostly tourists. This company is 5 euro more expensive, but guarantee your own personal media machine where you can watch movies, listen to music, use internet, play games and so on.

When you buy the ticket, you can pre-book the ticket some days in advance, or show up one hour before departure (the buses usually don’t get full). Some of the companies tell you that you need a visa in your passport and will not sell you a ticket without this, but this is incorrect. Some nationalities don’t need a visa, and for the rest of you there is a possibility to buy a visa when you reach the border. You need cash though, don’t expect to pay with a payment card.

About the customs between Turkey and Bulgaria, the bus will stop 4 times. The first stop will be a passport check in your departing country. don’t hesitate to leave away your passport, this is standard procedure and all the passports will be collected later by the bus driver and given back to you. Also here you might need to buy a visa if you don’t already have one. The price for this should be around 15 euro and you can probably pay with Bulgarian Lev, Turkish Lire or Euro. Some nationalities don’t need to get a visa, so check this before you start your trip.

The second stop is duty free shopping. Don’t buy anything that is in a closed box (like some cigarettes) because the customs don’t like this. Sometimes though the bus drivers ask everyone on the bus to ask one big box each for them, and then gives the people who does this a cigarette package each as a “thank you” present.

The third stop is the real customs with luggage check. Here everyone has to exit the bus again and place their luggage on a bench. Then some employee of the customs/police will go through your stuff, opening every closed package you have if you are unlucky. Food and beverage (in large amounts at least) is illegal to take between the countries. About half of the times this step with opening your bags will not happen, but be prepared to show everything you have in your bag just in case.

The fourth (and last) stop will be the passport control of the country where you are going to. Same thing here, you will leave away your passport, just to be collected later again by the bus driver and given back to you.

Going back to Sofia (for a week)

February 9th, 2010

For the first time when I’m in a new country I miss my “real home”, which for now is Sofia in Bulgaria for me. I miss friends, the wonderful people in general, the nature (most of all the mountains), trekking, sports (indoor climbing and so on), warm thermal springs, the great tasting (and varied) food, drinking coffee while walking and a lot more. I also miss being on the road…

That’s why I will be going to Sofia tonight and stay for about a week. What I don’t miss is the cold weather and I know Sofia is covered in snow right now, while Istanbul will be extra warm this week. But I really don’t care right now, and I also left some winter clothes in storage in Sofia so that shouldn’t be a problem (I didn’t bring them to Istanbul because I thought it would be warmer here).

Too bad my Turkish flatmate couldn’t join me this time, would be fun to show him Bulgaria, but I know there will be more opportunities in the future. And when I come back to Sofia next week I will have visitors from Spain and Sweden which I also look forward to! Until then, enjoy some random pictures below from the last week here in Turkey:

Sunset in Istanbul

Sunset in Istanbul

Istiklal street in Istanbul

Istiklal street in Istanbul, with an ocean of heads

Houses in a suburb in Istanbul

A common sight in Istanbul's suburbs

Building construction in Istanbul

Building construction in Istanbul with low security for the workers

Kartepe ski resort

Kartepe ski resort, about 3 hours from Istanbul

Istanbul – the first week

January 16th, 2010

Today I have been in Istanbul for a week and have already seen and done a lot here. Here are some of my first impressions of this amazing city:

* The city is knows as “the 7 hills” for a reason. You spend most of the days walking up and down when you move around here. Moving around is kind of easy with metro, bus, tram, shared taxi, normal taxi, funicular, boat and so on. The prices are also low and you can get it even lover by buying a metal thing that you charge and use on all kind of transport (except taxi).

* People are really helpful here. On the way here for example (with bus from Sofia) we crossed the border. An old man had 5 bags filled with cheese and some fine wines/champagne. Because it’s not allowed to bring food into the country the custom wanted to throw everything away. Everyone, and I mean everyone, on the bus helped the man in different ways, and after some phone calls from some of them this was fixed and the man could keep his bags.

* Although most people here are really helpful, there are of course also people trying to trick you (as everywhere else). For example in the restaurants when you don’t speak the language.

* If you buy a Turkish mobile card (sim card) you need to register the phone if it’s not bought in Turkey. Normally the people who sell the cards don’t tell you this (see above). This means that after some days your mobile will be locked and you need to go to a certain mobile store to unlock it and buy a new sim card. The official explanation for this is because terrorist use mobiles to detonate bombs, although some people say it’s because they want to sell more Turkish mobile phones.  There are no problem with foreign sim cards though. Also, it’s not allowed to talk in mobile phones on the bus.

* The food here are a little bit more spicy than in a lot of other European countries (finally!). If you are a vegetarian you will have problems because most things you eat here include meat. If you love kebab this is the place for you, as there are a kebab place every 20 meters. The kebab meat is usually of very good quality but there is no sauce as most people in the rest of Europe is used to get.

* The store areas are usually grouped in different categories. For example there is one road with only music stores, another one with only water sport stores and so on.

* Prices here are higher than in Sofia, almost the same as in northern Europe, and some things are even more expensive. If you know where to go you can find cheap and good food for around 4-5 euro though. At the markets you can bargain and lower the price to about half of the start price.

* The Turkish language are somewhat difficult to learn but not impossible. About half of the young people here speak English, and almost nobody of the middle age or older people speak or even understand it.

* Movies at the cinema are in original language, although TV is mostly dubbed.

* Guys kiss each other on the cheeks here. Also you can’t enter a club if you are only guys, you need at least one girl to be let inside.

* A lot of web sites are blocked from Turkey. This includes for example YouTube, which you can “unblock” with a special program installed. It’s still not possible to upload movies though.

* Everything here is called something with “Turk”, for example Turk Cola, Turkcell (mobile company), Powerturk (Music TV-channel) and so on.

* There are a lot of homeless dogs and cats here, the same as there were in Sofia. Also homeless people of course, as the minimum salary here is about 120 euro which is far from what you need to live here.

* It rains a lot in this period of year, that is it rains several days of the week, not so much at one time though

* You never get bored here as there is always things happening around you with this amount of people on the streets at any hour.

When you meet someone special

January 4th, 2010

When you meet someone special, should you stay in/move to their country to be a part of their life, but at the same time give up your own dreams and goals? Or should you let that person do the same (if they want) to stay in your country or travel around with you?

I guess on both questions the answer should be NO.

Goran Bregović in Sofia, New Year’s Eve

January 1st, 2010

New Year’s Eve in pictures