Archive for the ‘Travels’ Category

Bus Sofia <-> Istanbul

Tuesday, February 16th, 2010

Today I arrived back to Istanbul from my one-week-trip “home” to Sofia. I had a great week climbing, snowboarding, going to vernissages, museums, markets and meeting a lot of friends again.

To go to Sofia from Istanbul is very easy and only costs 20 euro one way. There is a lot of bus companies to choose from, and the buses departs several times a day. Because the trip is about 8-9 hours I would recommending taking the night bus at 10 pm, which makes you miss less time and you can get some sleep at the same time. The bus company I would recommend you to take is HAS Turizm which have comfortable buses, good service, few people and almost never any tourists. Also included in the price is water, tea, coffee and cake. Don’t expect anyone on the bus to speak English though, so if you want to have more control, go with for example METRO Turizm which have mostly tourists. This company is 5 euro more expensive, but guarantee your own personal media machine where you can watch movies, listen to music, use internet, play games and so on.

When you buy the ticket, you can pre-book the ticket some days in advance, or show up one hour before departure (the buses usually don’t get full). Some of the companies tell you that you need a visa in your passport and will not sell you a ticket without this, but this is incorrect. Some nationalities don’t need a visa, and for the rest of you there is a possibility to buy a visa when you reach the border. You need cash though, don’t expect to pay with a payment card.

About the customs between Turkey and Bulgaria, the bus will stop 4 times. The first stop will be a passport check in your departing country. don’t hesitate to leave away your passport, this is standard procedure and all the passports will be collected later by the bus driver and given back to you. Also here you might need to buy a visa if you don’t already have one. The price for this should be around 15 euro and you can probably pay with Bulgarian Lev, Turkish Lire or Euro. Some nationalities don’t need to get a visa, so check this before you start your trip.

The second stop is duty free shopping. Don’t buy anything that is in a closed box (like some cigarettes) because the customs don’t like this. Sometimes though the bus drivers ask everyone on the bus to ask one big box each for them, and then gives the people who does this a cigarette package each as a “thank you” present.

The third stop is the real customs with luggage check. Here everyone has to exit the bus again and place their luggage on a bench. Then some employee of the customs/police will go through your stuff, opening every closed package you have if you are unlucky. Food and beverage (in large amounts at least) is illegal to take between the countries. About half of the times this step with opening your bags will not happen, but be prepared to show everything you have in your bag just in case.

The fourth (and last) stop will be the passport control of the country where you are going to. Same thing here, you will leave away your passport, just to be collected later again by the bus driver and given back to you.

Going back to Sofia (for a week)

Tuesday, February 9th, 2010

For the first time when I’m in a new country I miss my “real home”, which for now is Sofia in Bulgaria for me. I miss friends, the wonderful people in general, the nature (most of all the mountains), trekking, sports (indoor climbing and so on), warm thermal springs, the great tasting (and varied) food, drinking coffee while walking and a lot more. I also miss being on the road…

That’s why I will be going to Sofia tonight and stay for about a week. What I don’t miss is the cold weather and I know Sofia is covered in snow right now, while Istanbul will be extra warm this week. But I really don’t care right now, and I also left some winter clothes in storage in Sofia so that shouldn’t be a problem (I didn’t bring them to Istanbul because I thought it would be warmer here).

Too bad my Turkish flatmate couldn’t join me this time, would be fun to show him Bulgaria, but I know there will be more opportunities in the future. And when I come back to Sofia next week I will have visitors from Spain and Sweden which I also look forward to! Until then, enjoy some random pictures below from the last week here in Turkey:

Sunset in Istanbul

Sunset in Istanbul

Istiklal street in Istanbul

Istiklal street in Istanbul, with an ocean of heads

Houses in a suburb in Istanbul

A common sight in Istanbul's suburbs

Building construction in Istanbul

Building construction in Istanbul with low security for the workers

Kartepe ski resort

Kartepe ski resort, about 3 hours from Istanbul

Istanbul – the first week

Saturday, January 16th, 2010

Today I have been in Istanbul for a week and have already seen and done a lot here. Here are some of my first impressions of this amazing city:

* The city is knows as “the 7 hills” for a reason. You spend most of the days walking up and down when you move around here. Moving around is kind of easy with metro, bus, tram, shared taxi, normal taxi, funicular, boat and so on. The prices are also low and you can get it even lover by buying a metal thing that you charge and use on all kind of transport (except taxi).

* People are really helpful here. On the way here for example (with bus from Sofia) we crossed the border. An old man had 5 bags filled with cheese and some fine wines/champagne. Because it’s not allowed to bring food into the country the custom wanted to throw everything away. Everyone, and I mean everyone, on the bus helped the man in different ways, and after some phone calls from some of them this was fixed and the man could keep his bags.

* Although most people here are really helpful, there are of course also people trying to trick you (as everywhere else). For example in the restaurants when you don’t speak the language.

* If you buy a Turkish mobile card (sim card) you need to register the phone if it’s not bought in Turkey. Normally the people who sell the cards don’t tell you this (see above). This means that after some days your mobile will be locked and you need to go to a certain mobile store to unlock it and buy a new sim card. The official explanation for this is because terrorist use mobiles to detonate bombs, although some people say it’s because they want to sell more Turkish mobile phones.  There are no problem with foreign sim cards though. Also, it’s not allowed to talk in mobile phones on the bus.

* The food here are a little bit more spicy than in a lot of other European countries (finally!). If you are a vegetarian you will have problems because most things you eat here include meat. If you love kebab this is the place for you, as there are a kebab place every 20 meters. The kebab meat is usually of very good quality but there is no sauce as most people in the rest of Europe is used to get.

* The store areas are usually grouped in different categories. For example there is one road with only music stores, another one with only water sport stores and so on.

* Prices here are higher than in Sofia, almost the same as in northern Europe, and some things are even more expensive. If you know where to go you can find cheap and good food for around 4-5 euro though. At the markets you can bargain and lower the price to about half of the start price.

* The Turkish language are somewhat difficult to learn but not impossible. About half of the young people here speak English, and almost nobody of the middle age or older people speak or even understand it.

* Movies at the cinema are in original language, although TV is mostly dubbed.

* Guys kiss each other on the cheeks here. Also you can’t enter a club if you are only guys, you need at least one girl to be let inside.

* A lot of web sites are blocked from Turkey. This includes for example YouTube, which you can “unblock” with a special program installed. It’s still not possible to upload movies though.

* Everything here is called something with “Turk”, for example Turk Cola, Turkcell (mobile company), Powerturk (Music TV-channel) and so on.

* There are a lot of homeless dogs and cats here, the same as there were in Sofia. Also homeless people of course, as the minimum salary here is about 120 euro which is far from what you need to live here.

* It rains a lot in this period of year, that is it rains several days of the week, not so much at one time though

* You never get bored here as there is always things happening around you with this amount of people on the streets at any hour.

Sofia -> Istanbul

Sunday, December 20th, 2009

It was a long time since I wrote something in the blog. The reason are many, but mostly because I’ve had a full schedule the two months I have been here in Bulgaria now. I’ve traveled around by car, bus and train, visited small towns, big cities, incredibly friendly & interesting people, been trekking, caving, taking baths in outdoor hot mineral springs, bungee jumping, partying, exploring and learning. I have totally fell in love, both in this country and it’s people.

BUT – I will probably move to Istanbul for 2 months in the beginning of January. There are mainly two reasons for this. First of all I will maybe loose my apartment here in Sofia around New Year’s Eve. Instead of looking for a new apartment here, I will take a break to get a perspective on things, and look for an short term apartment/roommate in Istanbul instead. Also, I need more warm climate than Sofia right now, although this means I will miss the snowboard season here.

First of all I will fly home to my family in Sweden for a week to spend Christmas there. Then back here in Bulgaria  for NYE celebrations. Hopefully at this time i have more concrete plans and an apartment.

The mountains and caves around Sofia

Tuesday, November 17th, 2009

I love trekking and when I have not been exploring my new home town Sofia I have done trips to the mountains. Two beautiful places that I want to tell you about are Lakatnik and Skakavitsa.

Lakatnik is about one hour outside of Sofia and there is a train stop which is perfect to start your trekking from. You will cross a bridge over the Iskar river and then walk up through a beautiful forest with an incredible panoramic view. After about one hour you reach one of the many caves you can find here. These natural caves date back to around 130,000 BP and have different difficult levels that suit both beginners and experienced cavers. If you don’t like cave’s (or bats) you can just enjoy the fascinating view! This mountain also has some perfect walls for climbing if you know what you are doing.

Lakatnik - crossing over the Iskar river

Lakatnik - crossing over the Iskar river

Locals we met on the way walking up the mountain

Locals we met on the way walking up the mountain

The river again following the mountain

The river again following the mountain

One of the Lakatnik caves with an incredible view

One of the Lakatnik caves with an incredible view

Portrait photographing on high heights

Portrait photographing on high heights

Beautiful view over the foggy forest

Beautiful view over the foggy forest

Skakavista is two hours from Sofia and is most easy to reach by car. If you don’t have a car available you can also take two buses to get there. Skakavista is perfect for a weekend trip as there is a big hut up in the mountain (within 1-2 hours walk) where you can stay if the weather is not suited for tenting. This place is most famous because of it’s beautiful waterfall and on the other side of the mountain it’s lakes. In the winter the waterfall is turned into ice and great for ice climbing. If you are here in the summer you can instead take a dip in the small river that goes down the mountain.

Skakavitsa - view of one of the mountains

Skakavitsa - view of one of the mountains

Ice on the mountain wall

Ice on the mountain wall

Beautiful ice formations in the river

Beautiful ice formations in the river

More river and ice

More river and ice

Skakavitsa river coming from the waterfall

Skakavitsa river coming from the waterfall

The Skakavitsa waterfall, with periodical ice breaks

The Skakavitsa waterfall, with periodical ice breaks

Both these places are great both for beginners and advanced trekkers because you can find varied level of difficult tracks.

Day trip to Ronda

Thursday, October 22nd, 2009

A week in Fuengirola is a little bit too much, so one day I took a short trip to Ronda. This small town is located high up in the mountains and is known mostly because of Ernest Hemingway writing about it’s beauty and the 120 meter tall bridge that you have to cross to get into the old town. I had been there before and went there now mostly to show the town too some people, but this time we took a different way back home and it turned out to be the best part of the whole trip! The roads were newly renovated and great to drive on, if you don’t easily get road sickness as there were almost no straight lines but only curves the whole way. The view was breathtaking and started with a desert landscape which soon changed into high beautiful mountains and a protected nature area with the name Sierra de Las Nievas. If it hadn’t been for the darkness catching in on us we would have spent more time just walking and driving around there.

The beautiful 120 meters tall bridge

The beautiful 120 meters tall bridge

One of the beautiful views from Ronda's parks

One of the beautiful views from Ronda's parks

More breathtaking views from inside Ronda

More breathtaking views from inside Ronda

Ronda's bullfighting arena

Ronda's bullfighting arena

Outside Ronda on the way back home - desert

Outside Ronda on the way back home - desert

More desert but starting to get greener

More desert but starting to get greener

Sierra de Las Nievas - national park

Sierra de Las Nievas - national park

Statue found in Sierra de Las Nievas

Statue found in Sierra de Las Nievas

Statue's (and mine) shadow with beautiful view

Statue's (and mine) shadow with beautiful view over the mountains and the city Coin far away

The city coin with a really "local" feeling

The city Coin with a really "local" feeling

Festival of Virgen del Rosario in Fuengirola

Friday, October 16th, 2009

It’s my last day of a one week long stay in Fuengirola, before travelling further on to Madrid for the weekend. At the same time I was here the festival of Virgen del Rosario occured. This is a week long festival when the town is filled with horses and colorful dresses with main focus in the feria area in the evenings, along with an amusement park built up only for this event.

Fuengirola - horse parade in the streets

Fuengirola - horse parade in the streets

More horses and people from the parade

More horses and people from the parade

Colorful audience of the horse parade

Colorful audience of the horse parade

Some youngsters sitting in the beginning of the feria area

Some youngsters sitting in the beginning of the feria area

The feria area

The feria area

Who says you can't drink and smoke while on a horse?

Who says you can't drink and smoke while on a horse?

It's easy though to get a little bit tipsy because of the warm weather

It's easy though to get a little bit tipsy because of the warm weather

More drinking and colorful clothes

More drinking and colorful clothes

Kids dressed up in the festival area

Parked horses outside of a restaurant

Girls bored after a long week, or after too many photographs taken of them?

Girls bored after a long week, or too many photographs taken of them?

Happy kid jumping on to a horse, impressive how good the kids were riding

Kid jumping on to a horse, impressive how good the kids were riding

Three kids on a horse

Three kids on a horse

Indoor party at the fiesta area

Indoor party at the fiesta area

Riding to the pub to get a drink - without leaving the horse back

Riding to the pub to get a drink - without leaving the horse back

The Sacromonte caves in Granada

Thursday, October 15th, 2009

For the last week I have been traveling and meeting people so I’m a little bit late with the postings in this blog. Anyway, one week ago I went to Granada (on my path Torrevieja -> Granada -> Fuengirola -> Madrid -> Sofia). I was supposed to meet and stay at one CouchSurfers place, but she never answered my calls so I found a cheap central hostel instead. For me it’s always worth living central in a city just to save time, if not the bus/metro-ride itself is interesting or the area you have found. In New York for example I lived in the outskirts of Manhattan in wonderful Spanish Harlem which is a must see in my eyes, and still close to the Hyde Park and the rest of New York if you have good walking boots.

Ok so now back to the topic. Granada was just lovely as every Spanish person I’ve ever met before have told me. A lot of tourists of course, but still very easy to find “hidden” spots you can have for yourself or to spend time with locals. One of the highlights of the city was my walk up to the hills in Sacromonte. There are a lot of people here living for free in caves where they have furniture and all the living capacities they need. I had heard that there was a museum where you can see one of these caves, but I could not find it and just climbed up the hills random. Suddenly I was lucky and walked straight into the area where all these caves are.

Sacromonte caves in Granada

Sacromonte caves in Granada

The best thing with this area was that it was totally deserted of tourists, apart from a group of 7 young persons I met and joined. These persons were local students that had just arrived 2 weeks before from Canada, France and Poland. After looking at the cave area we had a picnic break and then did some more trekking up the hills for some hours. Finally we found the way back and went to one of the guys apartment. After some drinks and snacks we went on to his favorite Marrakesh restaurant. The food and tee was great, as for the company, but the best thing was the restaurant owner who spoke 7 languages fluent (Arabic, Berber, Spanish, French, English, German and Italian)! He was also able to switch between them without a problem, sometimes in one and the same sentence. And his humor was great, joking around with us and sitting down at our table for a long time with the result that the food became almost cold before we started eating. Great day and evening and always fun with new friends!

More caves in Sacromonte, these even with solar power

More caves in Sacromonte, these even with solar power

Alhambra in Granada, view from the Sacromonte caves

Alhambra in Granada, view from the Sacromonte caves

Picnic and later trekking with Granadian students from Canada, France and Poland

Picnic and later trekking with Granadian students from Canada, France and Poland

Brainfood Soundsystem

Wednesday, October 7th, 2009

It’s the last day here in Torrevieja and I’m thinking back to all the people I have met here. A lot of them I have met in my favorite pub and the rest I have invited to that place instead. This place is like my second living room and is very relaxed with great and interesting people. I’m not sure if I ever felt so home and relaxed as there, which of course makes it even more hard to live this city and its people.

Every Sunday (and also unplanned jam sessions) some friends who are in a band called Brainfood Soundsystem plays live reggae at “my” place. I love the positive energy of these guys and here you can find a sample:

Also check out their MySpace page
http://www.myspace.com/brainfoodsoundsystem

Tomorrow morning I head out for Granada for some days, then Fuengirola and last but not least Madrid where I will fly (move) directly to Sofia.

Trekking in fog, rain & thunder

Sunday, September 27th, 2009

Great Sunday! It started with me getting up early (not my style) to take the first bus to Cartagena. There I met up with friends and CouchSurfers and we went by 4 cars up to a mountain. We parked the cars and directly got the company of two happy wild dogs, who accompanied us the whole day. We started walking and after a while we reached the top of the mountain, just to go down a bit again on the other side of the mountain and to a cabin with an beautiful view. There we stayed, eating whatever we had brought, and chatting. After some hours we were back again at the parking place.

Through the whole trekking it was foggy which later turned into rain and thunder. One of the CouchSurfers asked me if I had enjoyed the trip, referring to the bad weather. Of course I had! I rather take a challenging adventure than an ordinary. You feel more satisfied after, you test your limits and there is more to remember.

Mountain in fog

Mountain in fog

Misty forest half way up on the mountain

Misty forest half way up on the mountain

The small huts that waited for us on the other side of the mountain

The small huts that waited for us on the other side of the mountain

One of the playful wild dogs that followed us the whole day

One of the playful wild dogs that followed us the whole day

A hut with a view

A hut with a view

Mountains following the coast, with hidden beaches on

Mountains following the coast, with hidden beaches on

Too bad this is a closed military area so that not more people can enjoy this place.